South Africa the Great!

Lynne Thackeray's "Adderley Street" during the FIFA World Cup in in South Africa, 2010

It has been the wierdest thing being in Sydney while South Africa shows off her true colours. I just love what people have seen - I love what has happened there. Far from the predicted massacres of international tourists, thousands upon thousands of people have been bouyed by the joyousness of a country with a miraculous history and, more importantly, a wonderful future. And the World Cup has been an integral part of the South African story, showing that it is indeed possible for South Africa to take a break from the daily grind of  constant and violent crime. Well, as far as we hear. 

John Carlin, writing in Yes, South Africa can, says:

The society is great, and it is the reason why (never mind the safari parks and the fairest Cape) so many of us foreigners who've spent time here find this country more beguiling than any other on Earth. Ordinary people have so much more wisdom, grit, resilience, invention, courage and generosity than you find in most countries.

Shame on the television stations in Australia prior to the games - shame on their coverage of South Africa. Shame on the journalists who showed us only the back streets of brothel-laden areas, the police who were unable to deal with crime, the drug-dealing on the street. Shame on them for casting fear into the hearts of anyone who would have thought of visiting South Africa. Shame on them for not showing people dancing and singing and living the way South Africans do - with great angst, but with even greater joy. Shame on them for not showing the incredible diversity of life in South Africa - including the incredible highs of being in such a vibrant society - and expressing at least some optimism.

Yes, South African has some deep traumas, not least the poverty and high levels of HIV AIDS. And gender violence. But it is a country with grit and guts and resilience, as John Carlin says. And long may that continue.

Pictures below: 
At the Stadium, by Bev Cohen. 
The Oranje Bus, by Nicky Thompson. Staff at Dementia South Africa, by Lynne Thackeray.  

Jacque Marais' amazing Vuvusela photo, from Facebook. For great World Cup pictures, go to Jacque Marais's photos here

Uber-optimism for South Africa

As Marianne Thamm points out in her article "The feelgood factor need not be confined to soccer", South Africa is in a very proud place - filled with joy, celebration and excitement. I hear it from all my friends over the phone, on twitter, on facebook. I see it on television. And for me, after more than 15 years of working in crime prevention in South Africa, I am absolutely thrilled that it is, indeed, possible to break the chains crime and fear.

Marianne says:

We've learned that with enough political will and police the justice system can, in record time, make life uncomfortable for criminals.

I remember once returning from a trip to Johannesburg and touching down on the Cape Town airstrip with a sense of relief. I remember feeling that Cape Town just didn't have the paranoia I had experienced in Gauteng, particularly in Johannesburg. I remember wondering if there could be some way that we could just choose, from one day to the next, to no longer have the crime scurge eat away at every South African's safety and security. I wondered if large scale community programmes could make crime just, ummm, go away! The poorest of the poor were suffering the most, even though the media was all about the privileged whose lifestyles were affected by crime. I saw, first-hand, how desperate people were in the townships. I saw how desperate young men in prison were. I saw how freaked out victims of crime were. And I wanted it to just stop. Sommer (as we say in South Africa - the word means just so or just because.... it's hard to translate. Sommer is sommer).

At the time I was the national director of fundraising, marketing and media at NICRO (national institute for crime prevention and reintegration of offenders). We were trying to turn the tide of crime - we wanted to stop turning our homes into prisons and prisons in to homes. The organisation was involved with programmes for offenders, ex-offenders, juvenile offenders, victims of crime and also with those who wanted to start economic projects through the economic opportunities programme. There were 100,000 clients and 240 staff. Many, many people's lives were affected by the work of NICRO staff throughout the country. I was coordinating a national campaign called Whistle Week which was to "blow the whistle against crime". I saw how people on the ground wanted to express their need to end crime in their communities. And I believed that there was a lot happening to find solutions to crime.

I understood all the underlying reasons for the crime and violence levels, but that day when I landed in Cape Town I was accessing a kind of uber-optimism. Today, when I read Marianne's article, I had the same kind of optimism. Today I am hoping against hope that South Africa can find a peaceful place to be when the World Cup is over. I am hoping that the last few weeks and the next few days can sprinkle magic dust on the country I still love so dearly, and offer peace and prosperity way into the future.

Viva, South Africa, Viva. Viva the World Cup 2010, Viva!

Photo in Hermanus, South Africa. Francis and Jethro in the run-up to the World Cup 2010

Tonight I am truly proud to be South African. Almost as proud as I was the day Nelson Mandela was released from prison, or the day he was sworn in as the first President of the new Democratic South Africa. Or the day I got to meet him.

Tonight I am truly proud to be South African because all the things I value in South Africa are on show to the world. The innovation, the resourcefulness, the Can-Do attitude, the music and dance and the exuberance. Tonight I, like millions of others around the world, will be watching the opening of the Fifa World Cup 2010 in Johannesburg. I expect huge excitement in the crowd. I expect huge nervousness about possible criminal moments. I expect a huge police presence. I expect absolute elation from the people who are actually there at this historic moment. But most of all I expect South Africa to pull it off. South Africans have a way of just doing that.

No thanks, I might add, to the current President who was a disastrous choice, in my opinion, and who continues to fluff it at every opportunity. But, true to reputation, South African has managed the enormous task of preparation for the World Cup "in spite of". In spite of huge challenges, and in spite of a dearth of strong leadership.

When we were in South Africa a few weeks ago we were astounded by the construction taking place - not only the incredible six stadiums that had been built, but the huge changes to roads and infrastructure. Some of the key roads in Cape Town were having a complete revamp, and yet the planners had managed to keep traffic flowing throughout the course of the changes.

I have said it before, and I'll say it again. I miss Cape Town in the same way as I would miss a very dear ex-lover. It has been said that "we never stop silently loving those we once loved out loud" (Oriah Mountain Dreamer). How true for me of Cape Town. That mountain, those seas, those people, that energy. But I am here, now, in Sydney and not far from obtaining my Aussie Citizenship. And so a new chapter is starting for me - being proud to be a Sydneysider - almost as proud as I was to be a South African. And to represent that I will hold dual citizenship. With pride, and with deep gratefulness.

And in all that, I will continue to love my three cities at 34 degress south: Buenos Aires (City of Tango and the Paris of the South), my adopted city of Sydney (the Serotonin city) and my city of origin, Cape Town (the Mother City). How better  to celebrate my love of all three cities than to be in Sydney this night and share an extraordinary Utube clip a woman I have been lucky to spend time with some years ago, dancing Tango, with a Soccer Ball.

Viva Buenos Aires! Viva Sydney! And specially tonight, Viva Cape Town and South Africa. Long Live!




[Mother City photo taken by Rosemary Shapiro-Liu in 2003. But it could have been taken on my 2010 visit to Cape Town. While much has changed, there is much that has stayed the same. Photos on this blog are copyright.]

20 years of Freedom for Nelson Mandela

Meeting Mr Mandela at Broederstroom in 1994, at our Juvenile Justice for South Africa conference

In 1994 I had the wonderful privilege of meeting Mr Nelson Mandela. It's a story worth telling. But today I am remembering the day Nelson Mandela was released from Pollsmoor. It was the 11 February 1990, exactly twenty years ago. I was cooking at a camp for kids from my old Cape Town school, Westerford. We were in Onrust, not far from Hermanus (which is about an hour and a half from Cape Town). Someone wandered into the kitchen and announced, quite casually, that Nelson Mandela was about to be released from prison. My heart skipped a beat. It seemed completely impossible.

All over the world people would have been having the same reaction. This amazing day had seemed well nigh impossible until just before the announcement. The fight against Apartheid over the few previous years had become more and more intense, with more and more hope, yet this dream had still felt like it was a long way off. The pain and suffering of the Apartheid era was all around us, and we had seen many people detained in the late eighties. We'd heard terrible stories of beatings and torture and had known many people in hiding from the security police. Three people in my immediate family had been detained between 1985 and 1988. We knew we were amongst the lucky ones - others, mostly black people, had not been as lucky and had lost family members to the abuses of the system.

I felt as if I should not show too much jubilation. 1990 was still a time of mistrust and I didn't know quite how to react. I wanted to leave immediately and watch the moment of freedom for this remarkable prisoner of 27 years. If my memory serves me, the camp organisers felt the same, and the camp ended early so we could all head back and see the big moment on TV.

I set off as fast as I could, and found myself at a petrol station on the highway at the time that we expected Mandela to be released. I parked my car and hoped I'd find a TV somewhere. There was one. It was in the tiny room that was used by the petrol attendants during night duty and had just a single bed and a small TV on a table. It was afternoon, and around10 people had crowded into the room. They were a fabulous cross-section of South Africa - black people, white people, Afrikaans, English and Xhosa speaking people. They were old, and they were young. And we were all glued to the screen.

Suddenly, there he was. The old man who noone had been was allowed to take pictures of during his 27 year stint in prison. Mr Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela taking his first steps to freedom from prison with Winnie Mandela on his arm. What a dignified man! What an aura! And what quiet power as he raised his right fist. Yes, this was the man we'd been waiting to see.

I raced back to Cape Town. Parking in District Six, about a kilometer from the city, I joined a huge group of people "toy toying" down to the Grand Parade where Mr Mandela was to address the people from the Town Hall balcony. The crowd was restless. They had been waiting there since morning. People were pushing forward, surging towards the Town Hall. Rev Allan Boesak (who was later disgraced in a funding scandal) was urging people to hold back in a bellowing, amplified voice that did nothing to still the restless crowd, but rather seemed to egg them on to a greater frenzy. The crowd pushed ever forward. I kept my distance. Crowds had always scared me, especially the mass protests of the recent years. I knew I couldn't run as fast as my friends when the cops chased us.

Finally Mr Mandela arrived. I remember him cutting such a fine figure up on that balcony. And I particularly remember his wonderful voice that we would all grow to know so well holding the attention of each and every person in the throngs of South Africans who had waited hungrily to hear his words all day, and for some, all their lives. What an utterly historic moment, and what an utter privilege to be there.

The years that followed were filled with hope and promise, and working at NICRO at the time gave me a platform for the optimism I felt so strongly. It also was directly responsible for putting me in the right place at the right time to later meet Mandela. However, things in South Africa are a bit different now, twenty years on, with crime and wide-spread poverty ravaging the country. The damage of years and years of Apartheid continue to take their toll. And worse still, an immoral President Zuma is creating an increasingly dissatisfied electorate (while providing unending fodder for my cartoonist brother, Zapiro's, pen!).  The leadership of that country is nothing compared to the years under Mandela, but political freedom continues. Mandela set the tone for perhaps the greatest modern democracy on earth, and I hope against hope that South Africa can find the Mandela factor in the coming years. The movie Invictus reminds us of where South Africa was headed, and all South Africans whether living at home or abroad, need to take responsibility to let Mandela see the South Africa of his dreams in these, his twilight years. Viva, Madiba! Viva.

Photo of Nelson Mandela and Rosemary Shapiro-Liu by Nigel Branken

The last Riverboat Postman

Just north of Sydney, an hour from my door by foot and train, is the incredible Hawkesbury River. There the thickly forested islands and peninsulas rise out of the water and are a haven of indigenous flora and fauna. The area is somewhat reminiscent of Asia, and it is there that I can find the greenery and bluery I miss so much living in Ashfield. Transport costs just $13.60 at peak hour for a day return and $9.40 off peak.Well worth it, I must tell you.

I propose a trip at peak hour so that you can get there by 09h00. That way you can catch Australia's Last Riverboat Postman at 09h30 (Mondays to Fridays) for a four hour excursion through the Hawkesbury delivering post and some supplies to the otherwise unreachable islands and forested peninsulas. Unfortunately the Riverboat Postman is not cheap as an experience, but I think it's worth it. I hear the area and stories of it's inhabitants have been captured in the Australian movie, the Oyster Catcher, but I have yet to see it. The boat trip is a step back in time, and comes complete with a cup of tea and a very ordinary biscuit. The tea, though, is served with great pride by a chap who will tell you the story of how he learnt to make a great cup of tea from his mum. At each stop, the boat pulls up to the shore to be met by someone sending mail and receiving mail. Some of these people look as if they haven't left the Hawkesbury in a while - and I'd have to admit that some reminded me of forest gnomes. And if you're lucky you'll see a dog or two coming down to the short with a human. The dog waits patiently, and gets a daily biscuit. Unfortunately it shows. There's not much space to run around on the thickly forested shoreline, and there are dense forests right to the edge of the water. The daily biscuit combined with a lack of exercise could be the start of Jenny Craig's programme for dogs.

It's good to catch the train to arrive by 09h00 to be at the Brooklyn Wharf, right next to the train station to get your ticket and secure a good place on the boat. The upper deck is a great vantage point - complete with plastic chairs and serious sun. You'll need a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses. Downstairs, inside, you'll find shade and large windows and a supply of things to keep kids happy (books, crayons - well, they were there the last time I went). It's best to  book as sometimes travelers fill the boat, and sometimes school children going to camp at Milson Island.

Don't say you weren't warned about the stairs at the Hawkesbury River station - a huge flight of steps gets you off the platform and another gets you down to the water level. The 360 degree view from the top of the stairs is worth the climb! And you'll spot huge pelicans perched precariously on bollards and local residents arriving at the Brooklyn wharf in tinnies, complete with a dog each!

Lunch can be fish and chips at one of the local restaurants in Brooklyn where you disembark, and if you feel up to it a 25 minute walk along the road towards the highway will get you to the Brooklyn on Hawkesbury Apartments. An old convent has been converted into a number of apartments that are surprisingly inexpensive to hire, and seriously fun. One of the apartments is in the old church itself and is whacky, to say the least. There there is a pool overlooking the water, and lots of kookaburras, corellas, cockatoos and other birds. The marina is right in front of the apartments, and most have a view over the water. Three minutes back towards Brooklyn on foot you can hire tinnies. I've done that a few times which gets one up close and personal with the huge jellyfish that the Riverboat Postman bumps up against each day on it's trip around the bays.

I once came across a woman who told me that her grandmother had been dropped at the Convent during the second world war at the age of seven with her little sister, then five. They were left there as their parents had fallen on hard times, and they didn't know if and when they would be collected. Apparently two years later their parents managed to take them back. That story remains has added some texture to my holiday experiences at the converted convent, I must say.

The apartments are self-catering as there are no places to eat nearby, other than in Brooklyn itself. A 25 minute walk back to the village at night is sometimes more exercise than one wants after chilling out for the afternoon at the pool. Instead a bbq outside the apartment seems a much better option. Of course you could choose to take a car to the Hawkesbury and that would give you a bit more freedom to move around - especially if you have more time. Mooney Mooney and Woy Woy are nearby, and both offer some eating options.

So my proposal is:
Between 07h30 and 08h00: Take a train to Hawkesbury River with either a day return or a single ticket if coming back the next day.
09h00: Arrive at Hawkesbury River and buy a ticket for the Riverboat Postman
09h30: Board the boat for the trip through the Hawkesbury
13h30: Lunch in Brooklyn
14h30: a walk along the path around the area to the right of the boat mooring, at the level of the water, to where the boats launch and the pelicans gather
15h00: Go up the steps on the way back to what could be called a low promontory. Look out for bush turkeys and take in the views through the Eucalypts. There's a clean public loo up there
15h30: Walk down the hill towards the place where you boarded the Riverboat Postman, take a few steps to your right and pop into the water for a swim, safely behind the jelly-fish netting
16h00: Walk to the Hawkesbury Apartments (25 minutes) on the main road back towards the highway and book in for the night. Relax, have a swim, prepare the BBQ and enjoy!

Next day take a tinny out for a couple of hours before making your way back. There. That's my idea of two days of heaven. Hope you think so too.

See where you can catch the Riverboat Postman   Map