The last Riverboat Postman

Just north of Sydney, an hour from my door by foot and train, is the incredible Hawkesbury River. There the thickly forested islands and peninsulas rise out of the water and are a haven of indigenous flora and fauna. The area is somewhat reminiscent of Asia, and it is there that I can find the greenery and bluery I miss so much living in Ashfield. Transport costs just $13.60 at peak hour for a day return and $9.40 off peak.Well worth it, I must tell you.

I propose a trip at peak hour so that you can get there by 09h00. That way you can catch Australia's Last Riverboat Postman at 09h30 (Mondays to Fridays) for a four hour excursion through the Hawkesbury delivering post and some supplies to the otherwise unreachable islands and forested peninsulas. Unfortunately the Riverboat Postman is not cheap as an experience, but I think it's worth it. I hear the area and stories of it's inhabitants have been captured in the Australian movie, the Oyster Catcher, but I have yet to see it. The boat trip is a step back in time, and comes complete with a cup of tea and a very ordinary biscuit. The tea, though, is served with great pride by a chap who will tell you the story of how he learnt to make a great cup of tea from his mum. At each stop, the boat pulls up to the shore to be met by someone sending mail and receiving mail. Some of these people look as if they haven't left the Hawkesbury in a while - and I'd have to admit that some reminded me of forest gnomes. And if you're lucky you'll see a dog or two coming down to the short with a human. The dog waits patiently, and gets a daily biscuit. Unfortunately it shows. There's not much space to run around on the thickly forested shoreline, and there are dense forests right to the edge of the water. The daily biscuit combined with a lack of exercise could be the start of Jenny Craig's programme for dogs.

It's good to catch the train to arrive by 09h00 to be at the Brooklyn Wharf, right next to the train station to get your ticket and secure a good place on the boat. The upper deck is a great vantage point - complete with plastic chairs and serious sun. You'll need a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses. Downstairs, inside, you'll find shade and large windows and a supply of things to keep kids happy (books, crayons - well, they were there the last time I went). It's best to  book as sometimes travelers fill the boat, and sometimes school children going to camp at Milson Island.

Don't say you weren't warned about the stairs at the Hawkesbury River station - a huge flight of steps gets you off the platform and another gets you down to the water level. The 360 degree view from the top of the stairs is worth the climb! And you'll spot huge pelicans perched precariously on bollards and local residents arriving at the Brooklyn wharf in tinnies, complete with a dog each!

Lunch can be fish and chips at one of the local restaurants in Brooklyn where you disembark, and if you feel up to it a 25 minute walk along the road towards the highway will get you to the Brooklyn on Hawkesbury Apartments. An old convent has been converted into a number of apartments that are surprisingly inexpensive to hire, and seriously fun. One of the apartments is in the old church itself and is whacky, to say the least. There there is a pool overlooking the water, and lots of kookaburras, corellas, cockatoos and other birds. The marina is right in front of the apartments, and most have a view over the water. Three minutes back towards Brooklyn on foot you can hire tinnies. I've done that a few times which gets one up close and personal with the huge jellyfish that the Riverboat Postman bumps up against each day on it's trip around the bays.

I once came across a woman who told me that her grandmother had been dropped at the Convent during the second world war at the age of seven with her little sister, then five. They were left there as their parents had fallen on hard times, and they didn't know if and when they would be collected. Apparently two years later their parents managed to take them back. That story remains has added some texture to my holiday experiences at the converted convent, I must say.

The apartments are self-catering as there are no places to eat nearby, other than in Brooklyn itself. A 25 minute walk back to the village at night is sometimes more exercise than one wants after chilling out for the afternoon at the pool. Instead a bbq outside the apartment seems a much better option. Of course you could choose to take a car to the Hawkesbury and that would give you a bit more freedom to move around - especially if you have more time. Mooney Mooney and Woy Woy are nearby, and both offer some eating options.

So my proposal is:
Between 07h30 and 08h00: Take a train to Hawkesbury River with either a day return or a single ticket if coming back the next day.
09h00: Arrive at Hawkesbury River and buy a ticket for the Riverboat Postman
09h30: Board the boat for the trip through the Hawkesbury
13h30: Lunch in Brooklyn
14h30: a walk along the path around the area to the right of the boat mooring, at the level of the water, to where the boats launch and the pelicans gather
15h00: Go up the steps on the way back to what could be called a low promontory. Look out for bush turkeys and take in the views through the Eucalypts. There's a clean public loo up there
15h30: Walk down the hill towards the place where you boarded the Riverboat Postman, take a few steps to your right and pop into the water for a swim, safely behind the jelly-fish netting
16h00: Walk to the Hawkesbury Apartments (25 minutes) on the main road back towards the highway and book in for the night. Relax, have a swim, prepare the BBQ and enjoy!

Next day take a tinny out for a couple of hours before making your way back. There. That's my idea of two days of heaven. Hope you think so too.

See where you can catch the Riverboat Postman   Map

ZA News Mandela Puppet at the Seder Table

One Passover, many moons ago, I arrived at the Shapiro family home in Rondebosch, Cape Town. Can you imagine my surprise and delight to find Mr Mandela at the seder table? My brother Jonno, aka Zapiro, had reserved a seat for him with our family for the night.

And here he is - the first of the prototypes of the puppets launched this week at ZA News. This is one my most treasured old photos: Madiba and me at Pesach in the 90's.

ZA News is launched in Cape Town

Jonno's book launch, 2004. One of the last Zapiro events I was able to be at in Cape Town. That's what happens when siblings move to other countries!

I love the entrepreneurial spirit in South Africa. The resourcefulness, the innovation, the excitement that accompanies great ideas. For nearly 10 years now, the puppets created by Zapiro for ZA News have not been aired - TV stations have gone against that South African experimental mood, have blocked the artistic brilliance and quite frankly been what I would call Un-South African. But perhaps that's after living in Australia for a while where there's a constant debate about what is Australian and Un-Australian. But I digress.

Yesterday Kulula.com, whacky as they are, and the Mail and Guardian partnered ZA News and launched the news by the Spitting Image inspired puppets. The secret to the successful screening? Using the internet, and sidestepping television altogether.

I've never been more proud of the work my brother, Jonathan, is involved with. This time with Thierry Cassuto. There's very little to say other than "Go Jonno and colleagues!! ZA News is fantastic".

You can see some of the real ZA News and the Media Launch at the ZA News site http://www.zanews.co.za/ or the Mail and Guardian site http://www.mg.co.za/zanews

Orange Dust-storm Skies

We just woke to the brightest orange light through the gap in our curtains. I thought I was imagining the colour. It just didn't seem possible. The view out the back and front of our house was unprecedented. The TV news tells us that it's a dust-storm that is very widespread, but it is thickest over Sydney. It has come from central New South Wales.

Medical advisors say don't work outside, don't exercise, and if you can stay at home, do. If you have a mask, you might want to wear it, they say. And there is a special warning for asthma sufferers to be cautious.

Wow, it's quite an experience! Some of the pictures on TV are of even redder skies than we can see. Predictions are that this dust-storm will sweep around the world. We watched a wonderful Richard Attenborough program on The Planet last night, where we saw views from space of dust-storms moving across the earth. And now we're right in it.

This is an extraordinary, orange morning.

Sydney - the Serotonin City: Spring Dance Festival

The Spring Dance Festival - no performances over $25